Exclusive and luxury restaurants in Barcelona

"Is this seat taken?" I looked up at the big friendly face of the 6ft 3in bloke in the aisle. And then down past a frilly basque to a black thong and fishnet stockings. He squeezed past me into the middle seat, giving me a great view of the L-plate on his arse. I go to Barcelona every couple of months and this episode is not as unusual as it might sound. There are always half a dozen stag and hen parties on my easyJet flight.

 You see the same groups again and again over a weekend. Friday morning in the bar at Luton airport, Friday night on the Ramblas, Saturday afternoon in the Gothic quarter, Saturday night bar-hopping in the Born, early hours of Sunday getting into trouble in the Raval's rougher parts. And then by lunch on Sunday, looking distinctly second best, they reach Barceloneta, heading for the beach along Passeig de Joan de Borbó, which runs along the district's edge (though often getting only as far as the Fastnet, an Irish bar with Sky Sports). 

But only a few tourists explore beyond the main road and into this fascinating district, the old fishermen's quarter. It sits on a spur of land, jutting out into the sea and separate from the rest of the city. This grid of narrow streets, with tiers of laundry hanging out to dry from the densely packed apartments, also feels separate – more village than city. Friends and neighbours greet each other on their way to the market and in summer, chairs are pulled out of flats and on to pavements so locals can keep cool and swap barrio gossip well into the night. The evening is a great time to wander Barceloneta's streets and discover its little bars and restaurants. El Vaso de Oro (Carrer de Balboa 6) is barely a block in from Joan de Borbó and is a good place to start the evening. It's long and incredibly narrow and there is only room for drinkers to stand two-deep at the bar. So, being popular, that means it's often four-deep. It's loud, buzzy and great entertainment. You'll have to be brave and shout your order at the staff, imperious in their white jackets with gold epaulettes. They're more fun than they look.

Ask for a flauta (tall glass) of beer – the bar makes its own. It's hoppy and flavoursome. The food is almost as good. There are the usual tapas and they are all delicious, but don't miss the solomillo con foie (steak with liver pâté). Chunks of meat and slices of foie are fried on the big griddle behind the bar. It's a rich, bloody, salty, deeply unhealthy treat. The griddle is the bar's performance space. The cook is the star – confidence and flair are essential.